Farmers Markets Under the Microscope

Today is a gorgeous day, perfect for planting, but I took time to come home and watch my son so my wife, Mayda Sanchez, Secretary of the Farmers’ Market Management Network, Inc., could attend a meeting. The meeting (that she missed due to some scheduling confusion) was about a planned study of farmers’ market food safety. It’s being done through OSU in collaboration with the Columbus and Franklin County health departments.

From what I understand, they plan to look for pathogens in samples taken from farmers’ fields both before harvest and either at the time of harvest or immediately afterward (I’m not sure which). They also plan to take samples after the produce has been out on display at a farmers’ market, where it will have been handled by customers.

As a farmers’ market vendor, I’m opposed to this study. Why? Have I got something to hide? Am I afraid that all the dirty little secrets of sustainable agriculture will be discovered and the whole concept of “clean food” exposed as a sham? Not at all.

What I’m opposed to is the narrow focus of this study. I have no doubt at all that tomatoes that have been fondled by prospective customers for three hours are going to have some level of some kind of dangerous pathogen on them. No question. It further stands to reason that tomatoes that have been sitting out for three or four days at a large grocery store that’s open 24/7 are going to have tremendously higher counts of dangerous pathogens…but the proposed study won’t be looking at these tomatoes.

See the problem? Germs are everywhere. They’re unavoidable in the natural world. That’s why we have immune systems. Vegetables–at least any other than hydroponic ones–grow in dirt. Dirt is–you guessed it–dirty! The outdoor fields where the tomatoes are grown, exposed to flying birds and other wildlife, undoubtedly carry traces of germs, which is why the smart money is on washing your food before you eat it. This is true, though, of food grown outdoors whether it’s sold at a farmers’ market or at a big chain grocery store.

If we take two samples side by side, we can say, “Both samples show the presence of Superbug X, but Sample A has 6,000 times more Superbug X on it than Sample B does.” Reading that sentence, you would probably come to the conclusion that you would prefer Sample B. If, however, the result is just “We tested a sample from Jones’ Fruit Farm, and it contained Superbug X,” no doubt Farmer Jones is going to see business dry up fast. His customers will run from his stand to whatever store happens to be selling the food that is 6,000 times filthier, because that danger wasn’t reported. There is no absolute safety, only relative safety. If you don’t make a fair comparison, anything examined in isolation is going to seem dangerous.

I would welcome such a study if it were broadened to include conventionally grown food sold in stores. If the study shows that my carrots are germier than Wal-Mart’s carrots, so be it. It may hurt my interests, but at least it’s a fair accounting.

I trust that the folks behind this study have the most principled of intentions in doing the study. They no doubt want the public to be safe. They see farmers’ markets growing, and like anyone suspicious of something new and unconventional, they feel it necessary to verify the safety of the food sold at these markets. That’s fine if the study is being done in such a way as to include like samples of non-farmers’-market-food to offer some context. Otherwise, regardless of the sincere intentions of the creators of the study, it has the potential for being used as a hit piece by purveyors of industrial food seeking to undermine the competition.

That may sound a little “tinfoily” to some, but we’ve already seen Big Dairy sue to force farmers who don’t juice up their cows with hormones
to label their milk with a disclaimer saying that milk from normal, healthy cows is no better for you than milk from cows on drugs. Just today I read a story about Monsanto suing Germany for banning a genetically modified kind of corn that was the cause of some health concerns. If a corporation will do massive damage to the environment and sell people poisons while calling it food, there’s little reason to expect them to play nicely and tolerate competition from a bunch of little farmers selling homegrown goods. I don’t want to give these guys any ammunition, and a study that will undoubtedly conclude that local food is dirty (without also saying that shipped-in food is tremendously dirtier) would do exactly that.

What’s the future of food in your Life?

This weeks Ethicurean Chew on This site featured a story about North Market. I hope I lifted the right part for you to get there and read it. Here goes.

Nourishing Ohio’s downtowns, through community-food partnerships
by Guest @ 12:40 pm on April 25th, 2009.
North Market in Columbus, Ohio. Creative Commons/Flickr photo by TheeErin.

The Organic Consumers Association also has a number of timely articles this week about the state of food in the country on a daily basis. Read these sites when ever you can. Stay informed. Support the movement.

I think it’s wonderful that farmers markets are blossoming all over. I just picked up the list of 20 or so local farmers in the Sarasota, Fl area that have CSA’s, their own farm stands and/or set up at nearby markets. The one nearest where I’m visiting boasts a 325 member CSA for $600 a year from their 55 acre farm. Plans for next year aim for 400. That doesn’t include the walk-up trade and restaurant marketing they do. You do the math. Why any urban planning group wouldn’t include these figures in a comprehensive plan is beyond me. I’ve seen many. Madison Co, Ohio; Charlotte Co, Fl; Columbus MORPSE and the city of Columbus have all done or are doing one. Lets talk about the economic impact of small farms not baseball stadiums like the lecture I went to at New College in Florida yesterday. I went to a conference called Power of the Imagination.

Where many different forums were offered concerning low income housing, gentrification, destruction of the Everglades by housing, cattle ranching, sugar production and the Rights of Indigenous People. When does it all come together for a real comprehensive plan. I found my calling to speak for food issues as it relates to everything; And hope to continue speaking on these issues till a real dialogue begins among the people who can actually make changes that help the poorest and disadvantaged amongst us. Which is pretty much every one now.

Go plant your garden now. And buy a local bag of salad greens for the Gipper. Otherwise, 3 Strikes and your out.

NPR: City Folk Flock To Raise Small Livestock At Home

Urban Chickens are gaining in popularity as more locavores seek alternatives to industrially grown food. Municipalities are seeing more pressure from residents who want to keep backyard chickens, bees or even a mini-goat.

“Whether from tighter food budgets or local-eating ideals, more and more people are petitioning their cities to allow small animal husbandry.

City dwellers are accustomed to being awakened at night by the occasional siren or the roar of a low-flying jet. But the nocturnal disturbances in a Denver neighborhood have a slightly more agrarian feel.”

Read the Full Story on NPR.org

Suburbia giving way to mini-farms

In Boulder, CO the growing local food movement is nurishing a new breed of farmer that is turning lawns into farms.  Will the culture of suburbia evolve with the times? Some neighbors support the growing of food, others are not so happy.  I can see different types of neighborhoods “cropping up”.

Green Acres II: When Neighbors Become Farmers

What’s Local Doc?

I’m way overdue in writing something. I’m in Florida dealing with some personal stuff. Haven’t forgotten local food though. Here we have Worden Farm of Punta Gorda setting up twice a week. The Florida season is practically opposite to that of Ohio. Many migrant workers go from here to Ohio following the harvest seasons. Never forget about these forgotten workers. The Coalition of Immokalee Workers is a strong and vibrant organization representing those who harvest the tomatoes on your tacos at Taco Bell and the sauce on your pizzas at Pizza Hut. Tell management they deserve a raise. We still need them in this transitional world. And they need our help in finding equality. For too long have the toils of the farm worker go un-respected. Why aren’t these farmers considered equal members in the Farm Bureau with their own meetings and issues covered. Why is the Farm Bureau in the business of selling insurance instead of hosting multicultural events when they meet on the county level. Why is the the Farm Bureau allowing so many products come in from Mexico and South America that could be raised locally by permanent multicultural members of society. I hope to speak more in the future about specific products such as goat meat coming from Australia, China and India; Radishes, cabbage and shrimp coming from Asia. And Beer ingredients coming from England and Europe.

ODA Considers Expanding List of Cottage Foods

Cottage foods are those that are allowed to be produced in a home without need of a commercial kitchen it allows food entrepreneurs to sell their goods without significant start-up capital.

There will be a public hearing on Wednesday May 13^th at 8:30 am at ODA to review a proposal to expand the list of foods covered under Ohio’s cottage food law.  Full information on the hearing and rules is linked below.

The current rules allow mostly baked goods. The proposed changes will expand that to many other foods. In my opinion, this is one more step toward smaller localized production of food and away from the monopoly large industrial facilities have previously held. It is good for the local economy, good for small farmers and entrepreneurs. I encourage those with an interest in local food production attend the meeting.

Following is the proposed new list:

New CSA

Frijolito Farm is offering a CSA this year running from the beginning of June through the middle of November. Vegetables, eggs, chicken, bread, sweets, and a limited selection of fruits will be available. For full details and to order online, visit the CSA page at frijolitofarm.com